Cabin conduits and seat belt work: 6 hours

I installed the brackets for the conduits using pop rivets. I then pulled the conduit through and secured it with some gray rtv. This is the same procedure used for the left wing conduit.

I then worked on installing the mounts for the left seat crotch strap for the 5 point Crow harnesses. This was more involved than I anticipated. There was some helpful info on the VAF forums but it still took a while to figure out the best way to locate everything.

Everything went well with the aft bracket. Unfortunately the forward bracket was damaged while enlarging a hole for a number 8 screw when the top of the piece flexed and the drill put a sizable gouge in it.

I continued with the forward bracket for the right side and ordered a new part from Vans. (For only $10)

 

Cabin conduits finished:

 

Lining up the left side crotch strap brackets:

 

Posted with Blogsy

Static line routing and fuselage conduits: 5 hours

I got everything prepared to route the static system tubing from the T connector forward and down the aft left side of the baggage bulkhead. This involved drilling a hole for a snap bushing and pop riveting several wire tie clips in the fuselage skin stiffeners. To get the static line down the bulkhead I fabricated 5 small brackets out of .040 aluminum sheet. I used flush rivets to attach the brackets to the bulkhead and then pop riveted the wire tie clips to the brackets.

I'm installing 2 sections of conduit in the cabin area because the floors are not removable. These conduits will carry some of the tubes and wires with plenty of room left over for future items. The static line will go in the left conduit along with the adsb antenna cable.

I copied another builders design and made 4 brackets to support the 3/4" conduit. I also drilled the 3/4" holes for the conduits in the two cabin bulkheads.

Clips for the static line down the baggage bulkhead:

 

Conduit brackets ready to be cut out:

 

Finished brackets:

 

The holes in the second bay from each side are for the conduits.

 

Posted with Blogsy

Finished rudder and brake pedals: 8 hours

I got the anodized brake pedal parts back and they turned out great. They have a nice matte finish.

I used the hand squeezer and riveted the brake pedal parts into brake pedals. I used riveting tape and cleco boots to protect the finish.

I had to adjust (bend) the tabs a little on the steel rudder pedal components to get a good fit with the assembled brake pedals. I also spent a good bit of time drilling my four long mounting bolts for cotter pins. All the brake pedal components use castle nuts and cotter pins.

The rest of the time was spent fitting all the master cylinders. Everything turned out great and the rudder / brake pedal assembly is ready to be bolted in at the appropriate time.

 

The completed assembly:

 

Very happy with the results:

 

Breaking in the bolt drilling jig:

 

All riveting complete:

 

First time to use the cleco boots (yellow) to protect the finish while riveting:

The anodizing turned out nice:

 

 

Posted with Blogsy

Static system and rudder pedal: 4 hours

I got the rudder pedal support piece finished and primed.

The main task was starting on the install of the static system tubing. I ended up having to make a run to Sears to get a special cutter for the tubing. I'm using quick connect fittings for the tubing distributed by Safeair. The fittings work very well but require a very clean and straight cut on the tubing. I also used a small amount of silicone grease on the ends of the tubes as suggested by VAF forums.

I made a bracket from scrap angle to hold the T fitting. I will be making more of these to help route the tubing forward.

 

Off to a good start:

 

 

The big cutter on the right is the anvil cutter from Sears.

 

 

 

Posted with Blogsy

Rudder pedal work: 5 hours

I got my replacement rudder pedal bearing block drilled with good results.

After that I measured and drilled the longerons for mounting the rudder pedal bars in three possible positions aft of the firewall (3",4",5"). These positions roughly correspond to short, medium and tall inseams.

I also worked on the rudder pedal support which needed to be drilled for the three mounting positions and also drilled for riveting to the firewall.

 

Right bearing block drilled for the max legroom position:

 

All positions drilled in the left longeron:

 

Working on the center support:

 

Posted with Blogsy

More brake pedal work: 4 hours

I got the replacement brake pedal part match drilled to the old part.

I then spent the rest of the time prepping the brake parts to be anodized.

I put a brushed finish on the pedals but I found out later that the best prep for anodizing is to polish the part. If I were going to do it over I think I would just paint the parts and then bake them in the oven for durability.

 

Brake pedal parts ready to be anodized:

 

Posted with Blogsy

Brake pedal pedal work: 6 hours

I spent a lot of time mocking up the brake pedal and rudder pedal setup to locate and drill the holes for the brake master cylinders.

This is an important step because it determines the angle of the brake pedals in the relation to the rudder pedals.

Unfortunately I botched one of the holes in the piece where the master cylinder mounts to the brake pedal. So I ordered another one from Vans. The good news is that these parts are not expensive ($4) and Vans ships them fast.

I also got all required countersinking for flush rivets done on the brake pedal parts.

Rudder pedal and brake pedal mockup:

 

Marking the master cylinder mounting location:

Posted with Blogsy

Rudder pedal work: 2 hours

Worked with locating the steel rudder pedal weldments insider the fuselage.

I drilled the bearing blocks for the rudder pedals but unfortunately one of the holes turned out mis-aligned so I ordered a new one from Vans.

 

The bearing block is the white piece on the right.

 

 

 

Posted with Blogsy