Started prepping wing structure for riveting: 1.8 hours

I started disassembling the left wing to start the process of deburring, dimpling and priming before riveting.

I got the rear spar deburred and dimpled. It was already primed so it's ready to go.

 

Taking it apart:

 

 

 

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Worked on pitot tube and mount: 3.7

I got the pitot tube backing plate and mount ready for assembly. A fair amount of time was spent researching what other builders have done. This is one of the items that is completely up to the builder.

Once I located the place I wanted to mount the tube I had to do a lot of careful drilling and cutting on the bottom wing skin.

I also spent a lot of time cleaning up the actual Gretz pitot tube mount. Finally I drilled and tapped the $450 Dynon pitot tube for mounting. It's was a bit stressful because if you drill to far you can ruin the unit.

 

Locating the backing plate:

 

Using the rivet fan to locate rivet holes on the backing plate: (This is how most rivets were located before the advent of computer punched skins.)

 

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Installed stall warner: 6.5 hours

Started out by riveting all the plate nuts on the stall warner pieces then the access panel. Then I riveted the access panel into the leading edge.

Assembled and tested the stall warner. Installed the stall warner in the leading edge.

To protect the stall vane during the build I taped the bottom of a plastic cup over it.

 

Riveting the access panel:

 

Assembling stall warner:

 

Installed stall warner unit:

 

Stall warner access panel (showing off my stainless steel star drive screws which I will be using on all removable panels and tips on the plane.)

 

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Finished riveting left leading edge: 4.6 hours

Riveted the underside or the leading edge section and and riveted in the bracket for the stall warning horn.

I also spent some time cleaning up the leading edge section then I attached some plate nuts for the stall warner and the stall warning access panel.

 

Left outboard leading edge:

 

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Riveted top side of leading edge: 4 hours

I was able to get the top side of the leading edge assembly for the left wing riveted. It was a little slow starting out but I picked up a little speed as I went. I don't think I will be winning any races however.

It's good to be riveting some of the "finish" wing pieces together instead of all the prep work.

 

Riveting progress:

 

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More priming, now ready for riveting: 3.6 hours

Cleaned and primed the leading edge ribs.

I also built the leading edge stand used for holding the leading edge during riveting.

Finally I reassembled the leading edge in the stand.

 

Leading edge ready to rivet:

 

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Dimpled and primed the leading edge skin: 3.5 hours

I finished prepping the leading edge skin. This included polishing a 4" x 4" area on the inside of the skin that will act as a reflector for the landing light. I then taped over that area, dimpled, cleaned and primed the skin.

I also dimpled, cleaned and primed some other small parts that are getting nut plates installed.

 

Dimpling the skin:

 

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Deburring leading edge parts: 4.3 hours

Disassembled the leading edge and deburred all the ribs and the skin. The skin also got all the edges finished. (Ribs were already done.)

I also countersinked the stall warner and landing light parts for their nut plates.

 

Deburring the skin:

 

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Worked on landing light lens and stall warner: 4.6 hours

Got the left landing light lens trimmed and drilled for mounting inside the wing. I also got the parts that make up the stall warning sensor drilled and countersunk. I'm about ready to remove the leading edge and get it ready to be riveted.

Trimming the plexiglas lens took a while but was easy due to some tips I picked up on the Vans Air Force forum. The important one was using an oscillating cutter for the plexiglas. I used my Bosch battery powered unit and it worked great. Very easy to control. I also was careful to keep the plexiglas warm which makes it less prone to cracking. All of this will make me more confident for down the road when I have to cut the very expensive canopy.

Ready to trim. (I found the clamp was not necessary because the oscillating cutter was so easy to control.)

 

Lens temporarily mounted:

 

From the inside out:

 

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Worked on stall warner and landing light: 6 hours

Made the cut out for the stall warning vane then started working on the landing light.

For the landing light cut out I used the supplied template and made an undersized cut with the dremel cutoff wheel and step drill then progressively opened it up to final size. I'm happy with the results but it took a long time.

I also drilled for the lens retention strips and started fitting the lens.

I'm putting in a blank install bracket for now because the led technology is rapidly evolving and I think it's worth waiting to get the latest stuff.

 

Positioning template:

 

Cutout complete:

 

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Fit edge rib and joint plate: 4 hours

The nose rib that forms the inboard edge of the leading edge comes with no rivet holes. I spent a good deal of time lining up the rib and also a joint plate that goes between the rib and the skin and helps hold the fuel tank skin.

I got both pieces drilled and they turned out very good.

 

Fitting the end rib:

 

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Match drilled rivet holes in left wing: 8.4 hours

All the rivet holes for the left wing have been match drilled except for one leading edge rib.

After match drilling the main wing skins I attached the leading edge skin. This is a very, very tight fit and I used a method from my Orndorff wing construction video that used ratchet straps. It made the process a non-event.

After opening up several hundred rivet holes I took a break and unboxed my Dynon heated pitot tube. It has an electonic temperature control so it only uses the minimum power required to keep it free of ice. This unit also has an angle of attack pressure pickup for future use.

 

Positioning the leading edge skin:

 

Dynon heated pitot / aoa tube:

 

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Attached left wings skins: 2.5 hours

I temporarily attached all top and bottom wing skins. The next step will be running the drill through every rivet hole to open them up to final size. Then I will take it all apart deburr, dimple and prime everything.

Attaching the skins has made the pneumatic cleco installer rise to the top of my favorite tool list.

 

Top main skins installed:

 

Top and bottom skins installed:

 

 

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Prepped ribs and assembled wing skeleton: 7.3 hours

I finished prepping the remaining 10 (out of 14) ribs for the left wing.

I also drilled and installed the bracket that secures the left end of the wing to the wing stand.

After all the ribs were done I assembled the wing skeleton on the stand, leveled it and started working on the wing walk structure on the inboard side.

 

Left wing skeleton (the missing side of the leading edge is where the fuel tank will be installed):

 

Drilling the wing walk doubler:

 

 

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Finished wing stand: 3.5 hours

I made and installed the adjustable arms that hold the main spar.

I copied this idea from another builder but it makes it very easy to insure there is no twist in the wing.

 

The threaded rod makes it easy to adjust.

 

Checking spar fit:

 

Posted with Blogsy